A Week in Lviv, Part One

Last week I was lucky to spend some time in Lviv, the nationalist and spiritual heart of Ukraine. It is hard to describe the reaction of people in Zhytomyr have when I mention "Lviv". Their eyes light up and they become very spiritual. Words are spoken in whispered tones followed by a smile and talk of chocolate, coffee, and beer. Although feelings may be different in the more Russian-speaking East, Lviv is definitely in the hearts and minds of the people in the West.

So why is it so special? As I mentioned, it is the heart of the Ukrainian Nationalist movement. When you come to Lviv, you best speak Ukrainian. If you can't then try some Polish or even English but do not, NOT! speak Russian. This is especially true in the climate of war and intense feelings of animosity towards Russia and Vladimir Putin. As it is, Lviv has seen ownership change hands a few times in the Twentieth Century.  It was Polish Lwow from the end of World War One to the Soviet/German division in 1939. After the Germans were evicted at the end of World War Two, the city was renamed Lvov as Ukraine became ingrained as a member of the USSR. Only with Ukrainian independence in 1991 did the city fully become known as Lviv.

If you have spent any time in Krakow, Poland then Lviv will feel very familiar. Ignoring the Soviet-style architecture, you will see an ancient city with modern trappings. There are numerous churches or varying faith that you pass by as you weave through cobblestone streets. There is also an arsenal and more than one former monastery. But the main point of attraction is Площа Ринок or Market Square where you will find the town hall and dozens of restaurants and shops. When i arrived the Christmas/New Year market was still open so the streets were filled with the sounds of sellers, shoppers, musicians and the smell of smoked meats. Since Lviv chocolate and coffee are very famous, there were plenty of places to drop in for some caffeine and sugar. I was most impressed though by the amount of restaurants serving everything from above average burgers to game meats all for a very friendly price. And let's not forget the beer. Much improved over the last twenty years. 

Hopefully this will not be the last post on Lviv. There was so much to see and experience that it cannot all be shared in one post. So enjoy the pictures below and feel free to ask questions or post comments while waiting for the next post.

 The Incredible Opera House

 Christmas/New Year Tree at the beginning of the holiday market

 "The Wave of Ukrainian Revival" next to Taras Shevchenko Monument

 Taras Shevchenko Monument Under the Moonlight

New Favorite - "I 'some sort of symbol' Lviv" Sign (Courtesy of Phone Company KyivStar)

New Class Puts Spin On Old Lessons

This post is a mix of two English Club meetings at Gymnasium #1 in Zhytomyr. If you view some earlier posts on this blog you will see a lesson with students at Ivan Franko University where they view a Norman Rockwell painting and then create a dialogue based on what they have deduced from the painting. It gave students the opportunity to use their imaginations while engaging in nonacademic conversation. You will also view another lesson from the Window On America group where they read Jamaica Kincaid's poem "Girl" and then write their own poem called "Worker". Compare these two earlier lessons now with the students and teachers at Gymnasium #1. The only difference is that the students were asked to create a poem called "Student" where they wrote about the things teachers said to them.  I must give these Gymnasium students and teachers much credit for their high level of participation and the fact that they are coming in over their winter break. That takes commitment!

New Year's Spectacular

In a previous post I have discussed my work with the Gymnasium #1 English Club. As part of my work with Zhytomyr's Ivano Franko University I work with students at a local high school. Once a week I hop on the trolleybus and make may way to the other side of town to meet with the students at the local gymnasium. As the holidays have approached, the level of activity in the club has dropped off significantly, but with good reason. For, on this last meeting of 2015, I was invited to attend the gymnasium's holiday performance. I'm glad I went!

As you will see from the pictures and (hopefully) videos below, the students worked extra hard to put on a good show while having fun in the process. It seems like every class got in on the act with students from all grades singing, dancing, and reading poetry. One the highlights for me was the boy with the guitar who played "Jingle Bells". Not only was his playing excellent, but the audience began to sing along in English. Next, there was a play that somehow involved Batman and the Joker (a Comic-Con Christmas?). I didn't always know what was happening because I'm still learning Ukrainian but it was fun to watch nonetheless. Finally there were the Eight Formers singing "Last Christmas" completely in English. As an ESL teacher I must give high praise for anyone who gets up in front of an audience and sings a song in a tongue other than their own. It was a wonderful kick-off to the New Year's festivities.     

Jingle Bells Sing Along (with slight accent)

Christmas/New Year's with Batman, Joker, and Friends

The Emcees 

More Holiday Singing

Last Christmas