And Then Suddenly It's (Orthodox) Christmas

Just when you think the holidays are over, along comes Orthodox Christmas. On 8 January, the Orthodox faithful head to church to profess their faith. Unlike in the West, Orthodox Christmas dispenses with shopping, presents, and Santa Claus. The Santa equivalent, Дідь Мороз (Grandfather Frost) comes on New Year's Eve to deliver gifts to all the good children. Orthodox Christmas seems to be directly about, believe it or not, the birth of Christ. Much like Western Christmas celebrations, Ukrainians go to church either at midnight or sometime during the morning. The service can last as much as three hours and there are no pews: everyone is standing. After services, families go home to celebrate with their families and to enjoy the day. For dinner families traditionally prepare twelve dishes that represent the twelve days of Christmas. Meat is not eaten, instead families will prepare fish. But the most traditional food seems to be a dessert called Kutya (кутя), a mix of berries, wheat, raisins, nuts, poppy seeds, honey, etc. This dish may go back to pre-Christian times and each ingredient symbolizes some aspect of life.  (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kutia) This is not the only connection to days of Ukraine past. You will also see the Didukh (Дідух) in many town squares. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Didukh) This symbol, which often looks like a person, is made from wheat taken from the year's harvest. It is supposed to stay in a Ukrainian household throughout the winter as a sign of hope for a successful harvest in the new year. When the spring arrives, the didukh is burnt for good luck.  

Дідух and Дідь Мороз

Approaching Church 

This Christmas was freezing, reaching minus twenty-one degrees Celsius the night before Christmas. All hopes of going to midnight mass were thwarted by the cold, the blowing snow, and my midnight curfew at the dorm. When I awoke the next morning all was still expect for the blowing snow. During the night a storm had rolled in and filled the streets with snow drifts. Fortunately, the temperature had dropped to a balmy minus sixteen degrees Celsius. Determined to not miss the holiday I dressed warmly and ventured out into the cold. As I walked through the streets at nine thirty, I was struck by the stillness, the beauty, and the cold. I soldiered on, passing very few people, intent on seeing a Christmas mass. As I approached the church I could hear the prayers and the heavenly singing. I walked in the door, walked towards the main chapel...just in time for the mass to end and to see everyone head home. Rats!  Alas, all was not lost! Although it took another trip, I was able to get to the main cathedral to watch children sign Christmas Carols. Much like in America, these carols mix the religious with the seasonal. It was truly moving to hear children sing these songs even if my understanding is still far from perfect.

Children's Choir 

Cathedral Choir 

A Week in Lviv, Part One

Last week I was lucky to spend some time in Lviv, the nationalist and spiritual heart of Ukraine. It is hard to describe the reaction of people in Zhytomyr have when I mention "Lviv". Their eyes light up and they become very spiritual. Words are spoken in whispered tones followed by a smile and talk of chocolate, coffee, and beer. Although feelings may be different in the more Russian-speaking East, Lviv is definitely in the hearts and minds of the people in the West.

So why is it so special? As I mentioned, it is the heart of the Ukrainian Nationalist movement. When you come to Lviv, you best speak Ukrainian. If you can't then try some Polish or even English but do not, NOT! speak Russian. This is especially true in the climate of war and intense feelings of animosity towards Russia and Vladimir Putin. As it is, Lviv has seen ownership change hands a few times in the Twentieth Century.  It was Polish Lwow from the end of World War One to the Soviet/German division in 1939. After the Germans were evicted at the end of World War Two, the city was renamed Lvov as Ukraine became ingrained as a member of the USSR. Only with Ukrainian independence in 1991 did the city fully become known as Lviv.

If you have spent any time in Krakow, Poland then Lviv will feel very familiar. Ignoring the Soviet-style architecture, you will see an ancient city with modern trappings. There are numerous churches or varying faith that you pass by as you weave through cobblestone streets. There is also an arsenal and more than one former monastery. But the main point of attraction is Площа Ринок or Market Square where you will find the town hall and dozens of restaurants and shops. When i arrived the Christmas/New Year market was still open so the streets were filled with the sounds of sellers, shoppers, musicians and the smell of smoked meats. Since Lviv chocolate and coffee are very famous, there were plenty of places to drop in for some caffeine and sugar. I was most impressed though by the amount of restaurants serving everything from above average burgers to game meats all for a very friendly price. And let's not forget the beer. Much improved over the last twenty years. 

Hopefully this will not be the last post on Lviv. There was so much to see and experience that it cannot all be shared in one post. So enjoy the pictures below and feel free to ask questions or post comments while waiting for the next post.

 The Incredible Opera House

 Christmas/New Year Tree at the beginning of the holiday market

 "The Wave of Ukrainian Revival" next to Taras Shevchenko Monument

 Taras Shevchenko Monument Under the Moonlight

New Favorite - "I 'some sort of symbol' Lviv" Sign (Courtesy of Phone Company KyivStar)