Just when you think the holidays are over, along comes Orthodox Christmas. On 8 January, the Orthodox faithful head to church to profess their faith. Unlike in the West, Orthodox Christmas dispenses with shopping, presents, and Santa Claus. The Santa equivalent, Дідь Мороз (Grandfather Frost) comes on New Year's Eve to deliver gifts to all the good children. Orthodox Christmas seems to be directly about, believe it or not, the birth of Christ. Much like Western Christmas celebrations, Ukrainians go to church either at midnight or sometime during the morning. The service can last as much as three hours and there are no pews: everyone is standing. After services, families go home to celebrate with their families and to enjoy the day. For dinner families traditionally prepare twelve dishes that represent the twelve days of Christmas. Meat is not eaten, instead families will prepare fish. But the most traditional food seems to be a dessert called Kutya (кутя), a mix of berries, wheat, raisins, nuts, poppy seeds, honey, etc. This dish may go back to pre-Christian times and each ingredient symbolizes some aspect of life. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kutia) This is not the only connection to days of Ukraine past. You will also see the Didukh (Дідух) in many town squares. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Didukh) This symbol, which often looks like a person, is made from wheat taken from the year's harvest. It is supposed to stay in a Ukrainian household throughout the winter as a sign of hope for a successful harvest in the new year. When the spring arrives, the didukh is burnt for good luck.
 Дідух and Дідь Мороз |
 Approaching Church |
This Christmas was freezing, reaching minus twenty-one degrees Celsius the night before Christmas. All hopes of going to midnight mass were thwarted by the cold, the blowing snow, and my midnight curfew at the dorm. When I awoke the next morning all was still expect for the blowing snow. During the night a storm had rolled in and filled the streets with snow drifts. Fortunately, the temperature had dropped to a balmy minus sixteen degrees Celsius. Determined to not miss the holiday I dressed warmly and ventured out into the cold. As I walked through the streets at nine thirty, I was struck by the stillness, the beauty, and the cold. I soldiered on, passing very few people, intent on seeing a Christmas mass. As I approached the church I could hear the prayers and the heavenly singing. I walked in the door, walked towards the main chapel...just in time for the mass to end and to see everyone head home. Rats! Alas, all was not lost! Although it took another trip, I was able to get to the main cathedral to watch children sign Christmas Carols. Much like in America, these carols mix the religious with the seasonal. It was truly moving to hear children sing these songs even if my understanding is still far from perfect.
Children's Choir
Cathedral Choir
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