August 24th was a milestone day for the Ukrainian nation - it was the 25th anniversary of Ukrainian independence from the Soviet Union. When I was here twenty years ago independence was still fresh and I did not sense the feeling of historical importance and immediacy. But with the war starting to bubble up in the Donbass and Russian accusations of Ukrainian sabotage in Crimea followed by a mass of Russian troops on the border, this years celebration of independence had a greater sense of patriotism, and uncertainty. I decided to leave my small city of Zhytomyr and head to the capital of Kyiv to witness the festivities. This is what I found:
It was a grayish, rainy day when I boarded my marshrutka for the two hour ride to Kyiv. I was up early enough that when I arrived in the city at 0900, the streets were kind of empty. I was expecting people to be up early, preparing for a day of celebration. Instead, I think most citizens were taking advantage of the day off to catch up on sleep. As a precaution against any type of anti-government violence, Peace Corps not only required me to get permission to come to the city (standard procedure) but requested that I stay away from crowds. This may sound disappointing to many but since I have an aversion to crowds and being unnecessarily bumped, this directive was very easy to follow. But what Peace Corps or I failed to anticipate was the "unanticipatable" (new word). I consciously avoided the main thoroughfare, Khreshchatyk (Хрещатик) and Maidan Nelzalezhnosti (Майдан Незалежності) and settled in the lower city of Podil (Поділ) to await my friend. But then it happened! Or shall I say They happened.
As I was standing next to a coffee shop I heard a rumble. It was slight and far off in the distance. But as the minutes passed the rumble became louder and louder until it became a near deafening roar. I though perhaps street cleaners were out, washing the streets before the festivities. But I was nowhere near the parade route. Then I noticed the crowds gathering along the streets. When I went over to investigate, I was met but the site of a battalion of tanks coming down the road. Despite the warning from Peace Corps to avoid crowds, said crowds and tanks came to me! Although I had seen tanks used as monuments in nearly every Ukrainian city, I had never seen an active tank, no less dozens of them. But there they were roaring down the street, positioning themselves for the parade which would take place at the top of the hill. The citizens were waving and taking pictures as the tanks turned the corner, only to be followed by light artillery and then heavy rocket launchers. I stood there stupefied. Part of me was in awe at the sight of these powerful machines and the strength they exemplified. Another part of me was frightened for the exact same reason. These were the machines that were helping keep the rebels and the Russians at bay but, at the same time, they were also indiscriminately killing people. I could see why the Ukrainian President wanted to display his country's might at this opportunity but it also made me worried. I'm used to seeing fireworks exploding harmlessly in the sky instead of watching armed machines rolling down civilian streets with men and women who might soon be called into battle. There seemed to be many contradictions on this most important of days. On another note, the amount of smoke that those things kicked out was overwhelming. I was left choking for air and had to stand back as I felt a little bit dizzy.
Thankfully, the day was not just about tanks and missiles. As the parade ended, Ukrainians began filling the streets and enjoying the day. The sun came out and more people appeared. Khreshchatyk was shut down and people were able to walk and take pictures and just enjoy themselves. There was a stage at the Maidan that was used as a viewing platform for the President and his honored guests. Now people were walking around it, taking pictures with the Ukrainian flag as a backdrop. I also walked around the hills behind the Maidan where much of the violence of the February 2014 Revolution took place. There were memorials of the fallen as well as flowers and even a small church. I even saw some bullet holes that still remain in street lamps. Makes Independence Day here feel all the more real. Further on down the street there was, for some unknown reason, a motor bike and drag racing exhibition. I'm not sure the connection to independence day but the smell arising from the burned rubber reminded me of the tank smell. It was best to move on. After walking all day, it was time to stop and have a bite to eat. A beer or two later and a fairly good hamburger was a nice way to end my time in Kyiv. As I arrived back in Zhytomyr around 2100, the party looked like it was just getting started. People were walking the streets, buskers were playing their tunes, and there was a concert going on in the main square. But it was time for me to head home and reflect on my day.
What did I get out of Ukraine's 25th Independence Day? I had many mixed feelings. I was excited to see that, despite the tensions from the Eastern part of the country and Russia breathing down its neck, Ukraine is soldiering on. There is a defiance in the air but it is also mixed with trepidation. I believe that the people feel the pressure from Moscow and they are worried about their larger, more belligerent neighbor. But they also want action from their own government. They would prefer not to be at war and to see the bodies arriving home. They are also tired of corruption and would rather have definitive answers to social and economic problems rather than tanks and patriotic slogans. Before Ukrainians can truly feel independent they need to feel secure both outside and inside of their borders.
Here is some information on the ceremonies: http://www.reuters.com/article/us-ukraine-crisis-independence-idUSKCN10Z14T.
Please enjoy the pictures as well. Feel free to leave comments so I know you are out there reading and (hopefully) enjoying.
A tank in Podil, Kyiv.
Tank column approaching.
Heavy artillery rounds the corner.
It's missile time!
Patriotic Faces of the "Heavenly Hundred"
Cross marking those killed in February 2014 Revolution.
"Who defends (delivers?) him/herself shall be free".
One of the stages on the Maidan. Ukrainian Idol?
Found me an angel in the city.
