Not Your Average Easter Egg

Писанки (Pysanky) are not your typical Easter egg. In America we often dye our eggs one or two colors (perhaps more) and go hide them somewhere. But писанки are not just dyed, they are written on (писати) using beeswax and simple wooden and metal tools. The designs on these eggs are not random, rather they are deeply rooted in Ukrainian culture and tradition. For example you will see designs of nature such as birds, trees, along with modern Christian symbols. There is also a sun-type design which originally represented Дажбог (Dazhboh) a Slavic sun god. The colors also represent many different things such as the moon/stars/harvest (Yellow); purity and virginity (White); and new life (Green). There are also many superstitions such as the maze-like designs that are said to trap evil spirits. But like in Western culture, eggs are seen as a sign of rebirth and as an official beginning of spring. Писанки are given as gifts and it's always good luck and good form to give some to your local priest on Easter morning. So powerful was the писанки to Ukrainian culture that it was banned by the Soviet authorities as a religious ritual. As with some many things since independence in 1991, the art of писанки is making a slow but strong comeback. A spiritual and national rebirth, indeed! (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pysanka) (http://learnpysanky.com/supplies.html)

How are писанки made? It takes eggs, beeswax, candles, a special stylus and lots of patience. I have tried to make писанки on two separate occasions. For me it was in exercise in concentration and language as I had to use my nascent Ukrainian skills to find out what was going on. In a nutshell, you gather wax from a melting candle and apply it to the egg. I saw some people drawing their designs but others skipped this part and began applying the wax. To get the wax from the candle to the egg you need to use a special stylus called a кістка. Holding the кістка carefully in one hand you must scoop the wax into the tiny funnel and hold the funnel over the candle. As the wax melts in the funnel it drips out the other end. As you work you learn how much wax to melt and how to guide the кістка over the egg. When you are finished with your first design you bring your egg to the jars where they are dunked in dye. The idea is to build up several layers of designs and several layers of colors. Every thing which is covered in wax will not receive the dye. So this is a process that can continue as you build your artistic masterpiece. Whenever you are finished you burn the wax off by holding the candle to the flame. You then polish your писанки and varnish it with a coating of egg yolk.

While I was not very adept at making писанки I was many people who were. This is a real art form that speaks almost as much about culture as it does about religion. Perhaps next year I will make an every bigger artistic statement!

 Notice the кістка in the right hand.

 Teacher in action.

 Dyes and other tools of the trade.

 Language teacher explaining the steps.

Completed писанка

Easter Is Upon Us!

Last week, Orthodox Easter (Пасха) came to Ukraine. While I was here for celebrations twenty years ago, I don't quite remember getting so involved in the occasion. I think an important reason for this was that I was located in Donetsk which still had a very Soviet feel. There were churches but not as prominent as in other parts of the country. So the whole holiday sort of passed me by. But this time, things were different. I made a conscious effort to participate in the Easter festivities. 

As the holiday approaches you can feel the excitement in the air. Special Easter cakes (paska/паска: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paska_(bread)) appear in the markets and people begin to make the traditional easter eggs (pysanka/писанка) Then comes Thursday which sets the church services in motion. Known as Чистий Четверг (Clean Thursday), this is the day you clean your house...and your soul. People head to church after work where a mass seems to continually be in session. You enter, buy a candle (or use your own), and then ask a fellow worshiper for a light. I was unsure of the protocol so I asked for a light, listened to my prayers, and then blew out my candle in unison with the rest of the church. This process was repeated twice before I decided to head back home. While I did not attempt this, you are supposed to keep your candle lit as you go home. If the candle remains lit the whole way, you will have a good year and your soul will now be clean. I wondered how this could be done if the particular Thursday happens to be windy or rainy. I was told to bring a lighter. Hmmmm.....

Saturday is a bustle of activity as people rush to the market to buy last minute provisions. The line then seems to be drawn between the die-hard worshipers and the casual/less hard-core worshipers. If you are a die-hard, you go to the church all night and stay until morning to see the sun come up. I believe there are prayers and perhaps some solemn marching around the church. (Need to check on this as I have received some conflicting information) If you are still somewhat hard-core you arrive at the church at four o'clock and wait for the sun to come up. I am neither and I am locked in the dorm at night so I did not venture out. But I did go to the church on Saturday evening. Much like the all-night/early morning crowd, people show up to get their baskets blessed by the priest. In your basket you place any food that you want blessed. Unlike Catholic Easter, there are no bunnies and baskets are not filled with candy (well, not much anyway). Looking at the people lined up around the church, I saw everything from sausage, to chicken, to fruits and vegetables, cakes, etc. Apparently, people wait in line while the priest comes by with a bucket of water and a sponge-like device on a stick. After their food is blessed, the people quickly leave to be replaced by another group. I'm not sure how long this lasts but wave after wave of worshipers kept coming to the church Saturday evening. 

So what exactly happens on Easter Sunday (or Великий День/Great Day) depends on the family. Many people will go to church and stay for a little while...or hours on end. Most people take their blessed baskets and eat the food the next morning. About that time горілка (vodka) also makes an appearance. I believe many people use this as a day to be with family, enjoy the renewal of spring, and enjoy a nice drink. And you can finally eat your паска. I was told to do things properly you can't eat your special Easter bread until Sunday morning. And I was good...kind of....I did try the frosting. 

 Lining Up the Baskets/Shielding the Flame

 Blessing in Progress

 The Faithful Bow Their Heads

 Patiently Waiting

 Keeper of the Flame

 Pow! Right in the Kisser

Baskets at the Ready

Rob Sings....In Ukrainian!

I am not a singer. I know this. I have always known this. But I understand that songs and music are a great way to learn a new language. Therefore, when my Ukrainian language teacher, Natalya, taught me this song, I learned how to sing it. It's far from perfect but that's mainly because of my voice. So I hope you enjoy the song, 'Несе Галя Воду'. It is a typical Ukrainian folk song about a boy and a girl meeting in the village. The girl (Галя) is carrying the water buckets with a yolk. Along comes Іван, looking for a drink of water. She invites him to come over to the orchard where the well is located. Lots of flirting and misunderstanding but still sparks fly. If any Ukrainians need to correct my version of the story, please feel free.

Несе Галя воду,

Коромисло гнеться,

За нею Іванко,

Як барвінок, в"ється.

- Галю ж моя Галю,

Дай води напиться,

Ти така хороша – You’re so beautiful

Дай хоч подивиться!

- Вода у криниці,

Піди тай напийся,

Як буду в садочку – When I am in the garden

Прийди подивися.

- Прийшов у садочок,

Зозуля кувала,

А ти ж мене, Галю,

Та й не шанувала.

- Стелися, барвінку,

Буду поливати,

Вернися, Іванку,

Буду шанувати.

- Скільки не стелився,

Ти не поливала,

Скільки не вертався,

Ти не шанувала.

One Half of "Несе Галя воду"

Press to Play

 Dyed Easter Egg

Natalya and Rob and Wizard's Hat