Continuing Transsiberian Blog...From Peru

Tiger Mural Near Statues of Cyril and Methodius

I may have moved on to my next assignment but I feel there are still a post or three that I can write to summarize my journey across Russia. Instead of endless writing, perhaps I'll just post some photos with descriptions. What I found most interesting about Vladivostok was the mix of history: modern, Soviet, pre-Soviet. I saw lots of interesting graffiti not far from czarist monuments and reminders of Lenins from past days. In fact, there was a whole museum exhibition of Lenin memorabilia. I'm not sure whether this was out of nostalgia or a hope for the future. Time will tell, I guess. 

Through the Keyhole

Funny Bunny

Pulled This Photo Out of My Hat

Another Type of Lennon

Dreamy Marilyn

       

Cyril and Methodius

           

            Soviet Power in Far East Memorial

Lenin Bids You "Welcome" and "Farewell" (for now)

It’s All About the Buuz

Yup, it’s as simple as that: the buuz. Like many cultures, a staple of Mongolian cuisine is the dumpling, which they call buuz. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buuz) Some dumplings, like the Ukrainian varenyky and the Russian pelmeni are small and should be eaten with a fork. But the Mongolian buuz is much bigger and is meant to be eaten with your hands. When you get your plate of buuz, they come with a little hole in the top to release some of the steam. But don’t be too hasty with your eating lest you burn your mouth. If you bite into the buuz too quickly (like I did), then the little pool of (tasty) broth will burn your mouth. What you need to do is bite a small hole at the bottom, let the steam come out, and then slurp the broth. Only then should you eat the rest of this delicious creation. If you so desire, you can add hot or soy sauce. I thought I’d get tired of eating these things but three days were not enough! Bring on the buuz! 

The Grand Entrance to the Ethno Museum

Rock Formation/Burial Mound 

Besides eating, I used my last day and a half in Ulan-Ude to great effect. Leaving my semi-crappy hotel early the next morning, I made my way to the Ethnographic Museum of the People of Transbaikalian Culture, etc., etc. (http://www.ethnomuseum03.ru/events/istoriya-muzeya/) Like any good museum in the former Soviet Union, it is located far outside of town and is in partial disrepair. This means that you go only if you are a local and you know about the place or you’re a tourist with a masochistic streak. Guess which one I am? Actually, it means if you decide to go, you must do a bit or planning but when you arrive it is well worth the time. In this case, I took a marshrutka far, far to the limits of town. I passed lots of small towns like the ones I had seen the day before on the way to

Father Nature

the datsan. But instead of a valley, I went further up into the wooded hills. It was quite beautiful, peaceful. Here is where I found the Ethnographic Museum which, in effect, was a series of small villages plus a zoo (of abused animals) situated in the middle of the woods. All I had to do was pay a minimal entrance fee and I could explore at my leisure. And explore I did. The museum had everything from rock formations of early settlers to an Old Believers village to an early 20^th century pre-Soviet Siberian settlement. It was all quite informative with some of the information in English! I think I just lucked out and went on a perfectly sunny day. The only part I did not enjoy was the small zoo which was attached. These poor animals, from tigers to bears, were in these tiny cages. I made a quick retreat as I could not stand to see these poor animals suffer. If a guy with a heart of stone can be affected I only wonder how other visitors must feel. 

Siberian House, 19th Century 

Although I was a bit tired and the day was getting late, I decided to see one more datsan. Unlike the one in Buryatia, this Buddhist compound was located on a hill at the top of the city. Therefore, I only needed to take a brief ten minute marshrutka ride up…and up…and up to the top of the hill. And boy, what a great idea this was! Not only was this datsan brand spanking new, it had the most amazing view. From this vantage point visitors can see all the way across the valley where the city of Ulan-Ute is located. You can also see the mountains and the great river flowing along the plains. No matter how many photos I took of the view, none of them can do it justice. This datsan is very well planned out, with a circular path winding around the temples and gardens. There

Temple at datsan

was a huge bell that you could ring as well as signs in Russian with Buddhist sayings. Finally, around back, there were thousands upon thousands of prayer flags arranged above another spectacular view. I can understand why someone would want to devote his/her life to prayer if s/he lived here. It was incredibly peaceful and visitors treated the grounds with respect.

There was not much more I could do after that point. I felt like I had a complete day of ethnological studies capped off by a sunset of reflection and peaceful thoughts. The only thing left to do was head back to town and eat. I should have gone to a restaurant that specialized in Buryatian cuisine but I was not feeling that daring at the moment. I knew I needed to try the local dish of raw horse meat, but the platters were just too big

Prayer Flags with a View

for someone who just wanted a taste. So, I settled for a faux English pub and chowed down on curry washed down by beer. I then retreated to my hotel to sleep and prepare for my forty-one-hour trip to Belogorsk the next day. I spent almost three days in Ulan-Ute and I barely got started. It was well worth the stop!

Buddha Says, "No Feeding the Monks"

Datsan with a View

Fish Ain’t Nothin’ but Fish

On the Shoreline 

The trip to Lake Baikal was fairly straightforward; you take a marshrutka for approximately ninety minutes to the tiny tourist town of Listvyanka. And it is about as touristy as a town can get with lots of cheap shops on the beach selling junk, I mean souvenirs, along with over-priced restaurants. This also seems to be the place where many Chinese and Korean tour companies drop off their charges for a day so they can eat some fish and dip their toes in Lake Baikal. Additionally, there are boat rides, fishing trips, and some local museums to

peruse. But, I realized after being there a few hours that the true Lake Baikal lays somewhere along the other shores where the villages are smaller and less prepared for the tourist hordes. Or perhaps it is on Olkhon Island in the Southwest, where there is very little development but lots of opportunity to hike, sail, and fish. Regardless, the trip was well worth it and made me realize I have to do some better planning the next time.

So, what is there to say about Lake Baikal other than describe its size and depth? When you first see the lake as you are traveling along the road from Irkutsk it doesn’t appear that massive. You only seem to get little peeks here and there through the trees. But as the marshrutka comes over the hills and drives closer to the shore, you realize how immense, and blue this like truly is. I happened to arrive on a blissfully clear day so I could see the mountains rising clearly across one side of the lake. When I hopped out of the marshrutka, I was immediately set upon by tour guides asking for me to take a lake cruise or go to the local museums. I smiled and walked on, taking my time to enjoy the water and fresh air. The lake is truly beautiful and the more I traversed the shore, the more time I wish I had to explore. I really did want to do some sort of cruise but the ships looked so rickety and the prices were so high that I consigned myself to taking pictures and finding places to eat. I probably missed something good but I just can’t quite get myself to shell out money for an experience that might be barebones at best.

Mappin' It Out! 

I ended up taking a ton of pictures and then walking to my hotel. It was a tall log cabin structure down a dusty road. As I continued to haul my heavy backpack towards my accommodations, I came upon three cows ambling down the road. They were busy picking at whatever they could find to eat and there didn’t appear to be any farmer with them. I wondered whether they were let out during the day and then found their way home in the evening. Anyway, my hotel was very clean and

Umm, Omul...

comfortable. I even had a patio on which I could set and watch the evening descend over the hills. After I got settled, I headed back down towards the lake and started walking towards the restaurant that was recommended by the hotel owner. The restaurant ended up being over two miles away. There are a lack of busses so I just kept walking and walking and…., you get the idea. It did give me an opportunity to get a better view of the enormity of that end of the lake. While there was not much in the way of shoreline and beaches, there were spots here and there that people used to great advantage. As it was getting later in the day, I noticed locals taking chairs down to the rocky shore and opening up little tables that they filled with fish and wine. They were waiting for the sun to go down and enjoy the last of the warm days.

The restaurant was quite good. The main attraction was, obviously, fish. While there are many types to sample, the most famous fish from Baikal is the salmon-like omul. Whenever I told someone I was going to Lake Baikal, they told me I have to try this fish, preferably smoked. I had the opportunity to

Not My Hotel

buy some omul at the town market but the sight and the smell was a bit too much for me. But I was sure to give it a shot at the restaurant. I was almost going to try a plate of omul along with grayling and whitefish but a little voice inside my head told me not to be so ambitious at first. I’m glad I listened to that voice because the smoked omul was just enough for my taste. Was it good? Yes. Was it the best fish I have ever tasted? Far from. I think I enjoyed eating the venison stew much more.

After stuffing my face, I began my long walk back. By this time the sun was going down and the mountains in the distance were attaining a purplish glow. There was also a mist in the middle of the lake which rolled in and quickly receded. Before heading back along the shore, I climbed a hill and snapped a few photos and just

High on a Hilltop 

enjoyed the encroaching sunset. As I meandered along the shoreline I was briefly joined by a dog who decided to follow me for about a mile. By the time I made it back to the town, it was nearly dark. I made my way to my hotel and settled down for the night.

The next day, I decided not to stick around. I needed to get back to Irkutsk for the next leg of my trip. It was a good decision as the skies opened up and the rain came down. I was able to do a

Woof! 

bit of walking around Irkutsk and saw everything from churches to the Lenin and Czar Alexander III statues. I then hunkered down in a coffee shop where I met fellow Transsiberian traveler. Overall, I enjoyed my time at Baikal but it definitely deserves at least three days or more at a less touristy area. There is so much hiking and boating to do that twenty-four hours is just not enough.

Sunset