Summer in the Center

Living in Lima often feels like living in New York City; there is so much to see and do but people spend most of the time their respective neighborhoods. I did my best to get out and explore the City by running or planning events that would take me to a new place. For some reason, I have not done this as much in Lima. There could be many reasons for this but two that pop out are that parts of Lima are not always safe and, more importantly, traffic is horrible. If I do go out and see things, I do so on my runs. So, with my Fellowship halfway over, I have tried to get out more and see the city. Several weeks ago, I got up early and decided to explore city center.

Downtown Lima is a bit shambolic; the streets and the architecture are a mismatch of styles. Much of he area is chaotic and rundown.  But, of course, therein lies the charm. There are always people in the streets selling things (soda, candy, knickknacks, etc.), running, walking, or just going about their day-to-day business. One can find any sort of restaurant from the touristy joints, to higher-end eateries, to local comedors. And of course, there is the history. From the pre-Inca and Inca history to the last vestiges of Spanish rule to modern times, city center Lima has it all. And I happened to see much of it on my Sunday stroll. 

The Plaza de Armas, the main city square, is hidden behind a maze of streets. I didn't expect it when it kind of jumped out at me. The place was enormous, clean, and well-organized. On one side is the Catedral de Lima which was packed for the Sabbath. I poked around inside but did not really think it appropriate to start snapping pictures. I did miss the lead box that contains the earthly remains of Pizzaro but I'll be sure to have a gander then next time through. But the highlight of the day was watching the changing of the guard at the enormous presidential palace at the top of the plaza. Although there is a changing of the guard every day at noon, this presentation was special. Once a month, they bring out the whole color guard and
show a lot of pomp and circumstance. As the soldiers inside the gate waited to be relieved, a whole color guard with horses, brass band, and soldiers-a-marching, came parading from Stage Left. It was an amazing site the see, especially with the crowd of both locals and tourists, staring in awe. All the while, the sun beat down upon our heads, but no one seemed inclined to move until the whole ceremony was over.

There was so much more to see that day but the heat and the walking eventually took its tool. There was the Parque de Murallas, which has the remains of the wall that once protected the city in the 17th Century. Today, the park is more known as the place where the now-shamed Francisco Pizzaro's equestrian statue sits, forgotten. Seems like Peruvians have the right idea, let disgraced statues sit and grow moss in a corner instead of tearing it down and pretending it never happened. Finally, I got a
taste of the macabre at the Monasterio de San Francisco. The church appears fairly standard with many altars, shrines, and burning candles. But what makes the place, are the catacombs with over 70,000 remains. But that visit will remain for another time...

Overall, it was an exciting day, finally seeing city center Peru. There seems to be much more to do but a large part of future visits will depend on planning and patience. Planning needs to be done because you can't even begin to get a feel for the place in just one morning. And patience is needed for the crowds of people; especially those who are constantly trying to make you buy stuff you do not need. Welcome to South America!

Dancing Through the Streets of Lima

It is hard to believe that I have been working in Lima, Peru for almost five months and I have not written one blog post. What I have discovered is that blogging for me is like taking photos; I can do it any time I please but I need to be inspired. I'm hoping that things will change after today.

I have spent most of my time in the Miraflores region of Lima. For those who have not been here, Lima is divided into forty-three districts of varying size and quality. There are some truly peaceful and (mostly) safe areas like Miraflores, Barranco, San Isidro where most of the tourists stay. Then there are regions like Callao and La Victoria, where it is best not to get out and explore on your own. Central Lima, can be on the iffy side, but there are plenty of places to see, food to eat, people to
watch. It's all a bit ramshackle with old colonial buildings mixed with more modern fare, all touched by time and plenty of earthquakes. But that is for another time. Today, I was introduced to Le Gran Pasacalle Ancashino of 2018. "What is that", you ask? Well, read on and find out.

While I have found little (in English) on Gran Pasacalle Ancashino, there are some things I did discover. First, pasacalle, literally means "to walk the streets" in Spanish. It's an old musical term that appears to have come from Italian (passacaglia) back in the early 1600s and was eventually adopted

by (or was it culturally appropriated? I thought only Americans did that?) the Spanish. At one time it was a serious musical term as evidenced by Bach, who wrote Passacaglia and Fugue in C minor. Today, in South American terms, it is literally a street dance, accompanied by music, with a mix of Spanish and Andean heritage. A simpler way of putting it is: native populations from the Andes, wearing colorful masks, playing instruments, and dancing through the streets.

My exposure with the dance was purely by accident: I walked into the middle of it. I heard music playing in the pedestrian street of Jiron de la Union and the next thing I knew, I was surrounded by a band and a pack of dancing women. I realized it must have been important as everyone had their phones out and crowds were lined up on both sides of the street. I was (rudely) pushed aside by a woman and scrambled to find a good vantage point to investigate. None being found, I planted myself next to a gentleman, mainly in black, hoisted on an elevated seat. Apparently, he was part of the event; although, I was unsure of his role. Perhaps he was the Spy Boy; some sort of scout? He looked directly over the women who were twirling with each other and members of the crowd. Behind the women was a band with brass instruments, guitars, and drums. This contingent began to move down the street, enveloping me, along with the crowd. Along the sides of the street, came men, dressed in colorful outfits with masks. Perhaps they were like court jesters as they hammed it up with the crowds and posed for pictures.

                                   

I thought I was getting into the rhythm of the times when I heard the first 'Crack!' What was that? Pop! It sounded like a gun. But, son of a gun, it was not a firearm of any kind; rather it was an enormous whip. To be more precise, several long, nasty looking whips. Coming from the other direction was another group of masked gentlemen, brightly colored, wielding these enormous instruments of pain and destruction. As they moved forward to meet the dancers and musicians, the repeatedly snapped their whips. Apparently, it was not a problem for anyone but me. Most pedestrians watched with glee as the whippers Snapped, Crackled, and Popped their way down the street. I had other ideas. While I trusted the whips, I'm not sure I trusted their handlers. They were so long and sinewy, I thought they were going to snap someone's head off. (Mine?) Fortunately, this did not happen. Instead, whippers met up with dancers/musicians, and the whole group wound its way through the streets of downtown Lima.

What did this all mean? I am unsure but I would not be surprised if it was connected to the Lenten season. Peru is well-known for its Lenten and Easter festivals which mix Catholic Spanish and pre-Christian native traditions together into a unique celebration of color and sound. Of course, as a friend later reminded me, I could have just asked. Why didn't I think of that? But it now has me primed to find out more about this great country I'm living in and to get me out of the comfortable apartment and back into the culture.

Transsiberian Railroad and Japan - The End

It's taken some time to finish my blog about my travels across Russia and, finally, into Japan. I have more photos and several more adventures but I think I have (over)shared the highlights. So, how to finish this blog? I was looking for a themes that threaded themselves through my trip so I could use one or more of them to summarize my adventures. Threads I did find, but there was one that constantly reasserted itself - Finger selfies. Apparently, I am all thumbs (and fingers) when it comes to turning my phone camera on and off. I was constantly taking inadvertent shots of my fingers while fishing my phone out of my pocket or putting it back in. I do know how to work the camera, so I don't know why this kept happening. I started to delete these photos until I thought better of it. So, in honor of my trip more than half-way across the world via train, here are my finger selfies (Felfies?). Enjoy!

            

Museums, Shrines, Parades (Oh, My!)

Fairly Obvious: Man on Turtle

With so little time in Tokyo, I had to make the most of my days and cut down on some of may plans. I decided to start with the Edo-Tokyo Museum, since I knew so little about the history of the city. Much like many establishments, the Museum is actually on the second and third floors with very little on the first floor. I thought I'd spend a couple of hours learning about the city and maybe find some hidden gems to visit later in the day. Boy, did I underestimate how much time one can spend in that museum! I think I ended up spending four hours and I only saw the Edo part; I barely got to the Tokyo section. I was very impressed with the organization of the museum: the exhibits were easy to follow, translated into English, and extremely informative. There was a life-sized reproduction of a tea house; detailed models of the Shogun's palace; and many hands-on exhibits. Everyone was encouraged to lift things, locate people and locations using binoculars, and take lots of pictures. I was surprised to learn more than I ever expected about the importance of controlling and taxing the water supply in Edo. I very much wanted to explore the Tokyo side of the museum, but I was exhausted from information overload (see, kids how learning can be dangerous?). So off I went in search of food...or so I thought.

Shogun's Palace

Please Carry Me! 

As I walked down the street in the Sumida District, I came upon one of the many parks that dot the city. I had no idea what was inside or even if it was an important place, so I decided to investigate. Yokoamicho Park was very clean (as expected) and held a temple and at least two memorials. Apparently, the park is quite famous for some not-so-happy reasons. First, over 23,000 people were killed here during the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923, when I firestorm engulfed the park. I did not know

about this devastating earthquake until I learned about it at...the museum earlier in the day. Thank you museum! There is a memorial commemorating the victims as well as a charnel house, which I missed. In the center of the park there is a temple (Shinto? Buddhist?) were visitors can come to reflect. It was my first visit to a working temple and I was suitably awed. There was, of course, an altar where people and pray and pay their respects. I was able to light a stick of incense, after which I sat in one of the pews and listened to the silence. As I was leaving I also learned that the temple also commemorates the victims of the Bombing of Tokyo from 1944-45. This brought a whole new series of thoughts to mind. When I went outside, I found the memorial to the bombing victims. As I stood there, I couldn't help but think that there is a lesson from which all of us can learn: Don't bomb the American fleet when it is sitting peaceably at anchor, you will be sorry!

 

It was now past one o'clock and I still had not eaten since early in the morning. I went in search of a suitable place to dine; but, before I could find a restaurant, I came across what appeared to be a children's parade. At that point, the festivities had not begun but something cool was about to happen. Parents were preparing their children, fixing their clothes and putting them into a line. And there were

instruments! I saw pipes and plenty of drums, one of which was on the back of a small truck. I wish I had asked why they were having this parade but i kept mum. After a few minutes, the children began slowly marching, walking in time with the beating drum. I followed the parade as the music continued and the children chanted. The parents were leading, they were not actively participating. After some minutes, I broke off from the procession and resumed my search for food. Apparently, I could not shake the parade, since it continued to wind through the streets as I searched for an open restaurant. Just when I thought I had left the children far behind, I heard the music and the chanting again. Perhaps they were following me and I was leading the parade. Interesting thought.

 

After another twenty minutes of searching I finally found a restaurant. It was a noodle bar where patrons have to order from a machine, get a ticket, and present said ticket to the chef behind the bar. I ordered a medium bowl of noodles which ended up being enough to feed an entire family. With my belly full and my feet rested, it was time to find new adventures...

And On to Japan

We are slowly getting to the end of my Russian travel blog. I may have returned a month ago, but that does not mean my blog posts are at an end. Almost, but not yet. So, let me bring you closer to the finish line with my trip to Japan.

When I planned my Transsiberian journey, I only bought tickets to Vladivostok. I still was unsure of what I would be doing after my Peace Corps gig ended. If time allowed, I had thoughts of taking a cruise from Russia to either Japan or Korea and from there flying over to Canada and taking the train from west to east. Another idea would have been to take a train to China and then move on down to Vietnam. My ideas were endless. Things were settled in late June/early July when I received my new position, teaching in Peru. I would only have a couple of weeks before shoving off again, so it was either Japan or Korea. I more or less flipped a kopek and decided on Tokyo. I thought I'd just tool around

Capsule Hotel - My Room

for a couple of days and then fly back to the United States. After spending two and a half incredible days in Tokyo, I wish I had scheduled more time there. It was one incredible city. I know many folks have visited Japan so I will not concern myself with the touristy spots; rather, I will concentrate on my main priority: food. 

My flight arrived several hours late. Since I was flying from Vladivostok, very near to North Korea, I have no doubt that that morning's missile launch had something to do with the delay. I didn't even realize what had happened until I landed in Tokyo and the launch was all over the news. I just took it in stride and headed to my hotel. After getting a bit lost, I made my way to the capsule hotel right in the middle of the Ginza Bay district, one of the most expensive places in Tokyo. By the time I got settled in it was past 2000 and I was starving. While looking for the hotel, I spied an

First Japanese Meal 

eatery just below the railroad tracks. So I made my way over and sat down to eat. The restaurant was not very large and it was open to the streets. There was a grill and a counter that surrounded it, much like in a diner. I grabbed a seat and ordered a beer. The chefs did not speak English so I had to rely on pointing, until two gentlemen next to me helped translate the menu. Much to my delight, the restaurant served everything from sushi to various parts of the pig and the cow. I started with a bowl of steaming tripe soup and went from there. My new friends were extremely helpful and were able to make sure I got my chicken skewers, octopus, tuna, and other animal/fish pieces. The food was delicious and I felt that I got an authentic Japanese experience. It seems like I was the only non-Asian in the place and this seemed to impress my friends. We spent the next few

Octopus 

hours talking, drinking beer, and eating, eating and eating. I felt the warm glow of hospitality (or was that the chicken gizzards?) as I walked back to my capsule hotel. 

New Friends 

The other great food experience occurred my last night in the city. After eating at a Korean restaurant the previous evening, I was determined to find a offal restaurant, somewhere outside the center of the city. The Korean place had primed my taste buds with a combination of raw beef heart, pig aorta, and cow stomach; much of which I cooked on my own individual grill. Now I was navigating the bustling and rainy streets of Tokyo, hoping to find a place that was not on the tourist maps. By the time I got on my way, I was a bit exhausted from walking around the city. By four o'clock in the afternoon, I had already had sushi for breakfast near the fish market followed by a visit to a local buddhist temple. Although I had mapped out the trip, I was still having problems with wifi connectivity so I was unable to see my location. When I got lost I would go into a Starbuck's, dry off a bit, and try to reorient myself. I did ask for directions but had trouble describing the name (Saiseisakaba) and the location (Shinjuku), I couldn't really specify exactly where I wanted to go. Finally, after my second Starbuck's stop, I realized my coveted location was just down the street. I wandered three blocks in the misty rain, and entered the offal restaurant.

Finally Found My Destination 

Not unexpectedly, I was the only non-Asian in this tiny, yet cosy standup restaurant. I couldn't fully gauge the rest of the room as the clientele was mixed. Though mainly filled with men, there were a few women present. Several customers appeared quite inebriated; yet most others were only having a drink or two. So this wasn't a total alcoholic bar nor was it just a bunch of dudes watching sports on television. It appeared to be what was advertised: a place for locals to go and eat various parts of pigs and cows. And there was plenty of eating going on. As I walked through the door, the smell of smoke filled the air. Much like the restaurant on my first night, customers were in the midst of conversation, choosing their dishes using the labeled wooden tiles hanging on the wall and over the bar. Since I don't read Japanese, I used their English language menu and pointed. No one seemed to want to help the poor foreigner out. Still, I forged on...

Let the Games Begin!

Cooking Away

The menu was a 'Bizarre Foods" aficionados delight. The majority of the dishes consisted of pork; although, there were enough beef dishes. The portions were not huge (usually just a small skewer of four pieces of meat) but they were invariably tasty and filling. The only 

Offal Menu

questions were: where to start and how much could I eat? The best thing I could do was just dive right in with an order of pork temple. As I waited, I sipped a beer and looked around the room. Several patrons were cautiously watching me between sips of beer and bites of food. When my temple arrive, a few more sets of eyes looked my way as I tasted my first skewer. As a chewed, I realized that it basically tasted like pork, albeit with a slightly chewier texture. What made the difference was the teriyaki glaze and the salt, pepper, and other spices on top. I finished and gave a satisfactory smile. My neighbors smiled as well, seemingly happy that I survived. Not only did I survive, but I thrived! My orders

came fast and furious after that: Pork - Hatsu (heart), Harami (diaphragm), Shikin (gullet), Shiro (cartilage), Teppo (rectum), Kobukuro (womb); Beef - Nodobue (tracheal valve), Nodogashira (Throat), Rappa (Birth Canal), and Gyarashin (stomach). After ninety minutes of full on offal, I was full and ready to go.

Would I recommend this kind of food to anyone? Probably not but it is definitely worth a try for the adventurous. Although the parts might not sound appetizing, they basically taste like all other parts of the animal you usually eat. But I'm pretty sure the teriyaki sauce had a lot to do with it. One thing is certain: I will have an offaly hard time finding a better place to eat when next in Tokyo. 

Continuing Transsiberian Blog...From Peru

Tiger Mural Near Statues of Cyril and Methodius

I may have moved on to my next assignment but I feel there are still a post or three that I can write to summarize my journey across Russia. Instead of endless writing, perhaps I'll just post some photos with descriptions. What I found most interesting about Vladivostok was the mix of history: modern, Soviet, pre-Soviet. I saw lots of interesting graffiti not far from czarist monuments and reminders of Lenins from past days. In fact, there was a whole museum exhibition of Lenin memorabilia. I'm not sure whether this was out of nostalgia or a hope for the future. Time will tell, I guess. 

Through the Keyhole

Funny Bunny

Pulled This Photo Out of My Hat

Another Type of Lennon

Dreamy Marilyn

       

Cyril and Methodius

           

            Soviet Power in Far East Memorial

Lenin Bids You "Welcome" and "Farewell" (for now)