Follow the link for more pics and an interesting story.
https://rlopeacecorpsukraine.wordpress.com/
17 February 2016
16 February 2016
Memorial Run - Biķernieku Forest, outside of Riga, Latvia
Over the past few years I have made a conscious decision to expand my travel activities. Although not quite going to the extreme of cliff jumping or sky-diving, I have tried to move beyond simple tourist activities. A few years ago, I spent a week learning Spanish up in the mountains in Nicaragua. This summer I took a train from London to Whitstable and then proceeded to sail around the mouth of the River Thames. Apparently, these were only to whet my appetite. I spent the last four days in Riga, Latvia and decided to visit some of the lesser known sites in the city. On the third day I visited the Jewish Ghetto Museum (http://www.rgm.lv/?lang=en) and was quite moved by what I saw. After an hour plus viewing and reading the exhibits, I decided to spend my last day visiting two sites: Bikernieki Memorial (http://www.jews.lv/en/content/memorial-bikernieki-forest) and the Salaspils Internment Camp. While both required effort to find (or not find as you shall see), I am grateful I took the time to find these places. They were unforgettable. For today, I will discuss the memorial in the Bikernieki Forest. (http://us.wow.com/wiki/Bikernieki_Memorial)
The Bikernieki Forest is a mere three plus miles outside of the city. It is hard to imagine that the citizens did not notice thousands of people being forced marched out there between the years 1941-1944. This theme of not knowing, or pretending not to know, was evident even today. There are no signs and even the Internet sites proved inconclusive. I decided to run the whole distance and took my phone as a precaution. I found the appointed turn off and headed towards the forest. But when I got closer, things got confusing. Again, no signs, no indications, no nothing to help me along. I even began running into the forest, when I realized how massive it was. If I got lost, who knows where I would end up on this cold morning. So I stopped at a local store to ask for directions. In my shaky Russian I asked an older woman where to find the monument. In somewhat shaky Russian she gave me directions but seem a bit confused that I was asking. Was this willful ignorance or do the locals truly not know what happened here seventy-five years ago. With these directions in hand I ran back in the forest but was once again unsure where I was going. As I looked around I realized how easy this must have been for the Nazis to march these unsuspecting people out into the middle of a cold, quiet, empty forest. There was no one to see and no one to hear. Fortunately, I found another jogger who, in mixed English and Russian, pointed me in the right direction. And there, at the crest of a hill, I found something.
I'd like to say that I found the memorial found in the links above, but that was not the case. That official memorial was a bit down the road on the other side of the forest. What I did find was probably more moving. I stood atop of a hill above a small ravine. On all sides of the ravine there were wooden posts with the Star of David and the dates 1941-1944. A set of stairs descended into the ravine and then continued to the other side. In the ravine there were raised patches of earth, boxed in by wooden planks (kind of like a bit sandbox filled in and grassed over). In each of these raised patches stood solitary, tablet-like stones. Someone had laid plastic flowers on top of one. Other than that, there was nothing. The area was overgrown and somewhat strewn with trash (although much of the forest was like this). And that was it. Nothing else but the quiet. Once and a while someone would come by usually walking a dog. But nothing was said. No one else stopped to pay their respects. No one else looked solemnly at the ground. As the cold began to set in I decided it was time to go. I almost went looking for the official memorial but there was more to see that day.
A final note, the granite stones used in the official memorial come from...Zhytomyr, Ukraine where I am serving as a Peace Corps Volunteer. Full circle, it seems.
I'd like to say that I found the memorial found in the links above, but that was not the case. That official memorial was a bit down the road on the other side of the forest. What I did find was probably more moving. I stood atop of a hill above a small ravine. On all sides of the ravine there were wooden posts with the Star of David and the dates 1941-1944. A set of stairs descended into the ravine and then continued to the other side. In the ravine there were raised patches of earth, boxed in by wooden planks (kind of like a bit sandbox filled in and grassed over). In each of these raised patches stood solitary, tablet-like stones. Someone had laid plastic flowers on top of one. Other than that, there was nothing. The area was overgrown and somewhat strewn with trash (although much of the forest was like this). And that was it. Nothing else but the quiet. Once and a while someone would come by usually walking a dog. But nothing was said. No one else stopped to pay their respects. No one else looked solemnly at the ground. As the cold began to set in I decided it was time to go. I almost went looking for the official memorial but there was more to see that day.
A final note, the granite stones used in the official memorial come from...Zhytomyr, Ukraine where I am serving as a Peace Corps Volunteer. Full circle, it seems.
The Road In
Tall Trees, Silence
Marker Atop Ravine
Star of David, Ominous Dates
Raised Dirt with Stone Marker
Steps Down, Ravine, Steps Up
Stone Marker
Stone Marker
Final Reminder
09 February 2016
A Celebration of Learning
At the end of Winter School each group was required to create a skit or a song to demonstrate what they had learned. Ukrainians love to show off their theatrical skills and with good reason. Most events, educational or otherwise, will feature some sort of singing and dancing. In this case, participants did not sing traditional Ukrainian songs, rather they showcased their talents in English. The ideas were unique and clever. I only wish my knowledge of Ukrainian can be that sharp some day.
Getting Rocked!
Cadence Call
Marching Off
Bedtime Story
Imploring You to Listen
Excellent Feedback
Old Style Soviet Teacher
Another Update...On the Other Blog.
There will be an update here soon. In the meantime, check out my other blog. Why two? No idea.
https://rlopeacecorpsukraine.wordpress.com/
https://rlopeacecorpsukraine.wordpress.com/
02 February 2016
Cross Promotion Time
What to see some other cool things I was up to in Lviv? Check out Blog #1 over on WordPress:
https://rlopeacecorpsukraine.wordpress.com/
It only gets better....
https://rlopeacecorpsukraine.wordpress.com/
It only gets better....
01 February 2016
Singing On the Streets of Lviv
I have not witnessed as much singing as in the streets of Lviv. Perhaps it was because of the holidays: New New Year, Old New Year, Epiphany, New Old New New Year, etc. Or perhaps it is because Lviv is such a vibrant city. One evening I was walking near the Taras Shevchenko Monument (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9Z0nd_z3Qk) when I happened upon a group of older people singing. My Ukrainian is not that strong so I am unsure of the exact nature of the tune but it may be something patriotic as at the end everyone shouted "Слава Україна" (Glory to Ukraine!). Either way, I found it very moving standing in that square under the shadow of the great poet and patriot Shevchenko with the moon peeking through the clouds. Sorry for the lack of light in advance!
A few nights later I was walking with my friends when we came upon a group of young men busking in the chill of the night. They were singing a song from one of Ukraine's most famous rock groups Океан Ельзи (Ocean Elzy, http://www.okeanelzy.com/). Everyone seemed to know the song and many began to sing and to dance around. Of course there was the ubiquitous old dude singing loudly, trying to dance with the young girls. Happens in every country. Either way, spirits were high despite the cold and everyone seemed to go home happy. Again, sorry for the video quality.
A few nights later I was walking with my friends when we came upon a group of young men busking in the chill of the night. They were singing a song from one of Ukraine's most famous rock groups Океан Ельзи (Ocean Elzy, http://www.okeanelzy.com/). Everyone seemed to know the song and many began to sing and to dance around. Of course there was the ubiquitous old dude singing loudly, trying to dance with the young girls. Happens in every country. Either way, spirits were high despite the cold and everyone seemed to go home happy. Again, sorry for the video quality.
31 January 2016
A Week in Lviv, Part One
Last week I was lucky to spend some time in Lviv, the nationalist and spiritual heart of Ukraine. It is hard to describe the reaction of people in Zhytomyr have when I mention "Lviv". Their eyes light up and they become very spiritual. Words are spoken in whispered tones followed by a smile and talk of chocolate, coffee, and beer. Although feelings may be different in the more Russian-speaking East, Lviv is definitely in the hearts and minds of the people in the West.
So why is it so special? As I mentioned, it is the heart of the Ukrainian Nationalist movement. When you come to Lviv, you best speak Ukrainian. If you can't then try some Polish or even English but do not, NOT! speak Russian. This is especially true in the climate of war and intense feelings of animosity towards Russia and Vladimir Putin. As it is, Lviv has seen ownership change hands a few times in the Twentieth Century. It was Polish Lwow from the end of World War One to the Soviet/German division in 1939. After the Germans were evicted at the end of World War Two, the city was renamed Lvov as Ukraine became ingrained as a member of the USSR. Only with Ukrainian independence in 1991 did the city fully become known as Lviv.
If you have spent any time in Krakow, Poland then Lviv will feel very familiar. Ignoring the Soviet-style architecture, you will see an ancient city with modern trappings. There are numerous churches or varying faith that you pass by as you weave through cobblestone streets. There is also an arsenal and more than one former monastery. But the main point of attraction is Площа Ринок or Market Square where you will find the town hall and dozens of restaurants and shops. When i arrived the Christmas/New Year market was still open so the streets were filled with the sounds of sellers, shoppers, musicians and the smell of smoked meats. Since Lviv chocolate and coffee are very famous, there were plenty of places to drop in for some caffeine and sugar. I was most impressed though by the amount of restaurants serving everything from above average burgers to game meats all for a very friendly price. And let's not forget the beer. Much improved over the last twenty years.
Hopefully this will not be the last post on Lviv. There was so much to see and experience that it cannot all be shared in one post. So enjoy the pictures below and feel free to ask questions or post comments while waiting for the next post.
So why is it so special? As I mentioned, it is the heart of the Ukrainian Nationalist movement. When you come to Lviv, you best speak Ukrainian. If you can't then try some Polish or even English but do not, NOT! speak Russian. This is especially true in the climate of war and intense feelings of animosity towards Russia and Vladimir Putin. As it is, Lviv has seen ownership change hands a few times in the Twentieth Century. It was Polish Lwow from the end of World War One to the Soviet/German division in 1939. After the Germans were evicted at the end of World War Two, the city was renamed Lvov as Ukraine became ingrained as a member of the USSR. Only with Ukrainian independence in 1991 did the city fully become known as Lviv.
If you have spent any time in Krakow, Poland then Lviv will feel very familiar. Ignoring the Soviet-style architecture, you will see an ancient city with modern trappings. There are numerous churches or varying faith that you pass by as you weave through cobblestone streets. There is also an arsenal and more than one former monastery. But the main point of attraction is Площа Ринок or Market Square where you will find the town hall and dozens of restaurants and shops. When i arrived the Christmas/New Year market was still open so the streets were filled with the sounds of sellers, shoppers, musicians and the smell of smoked meats. Since Lviv chocolate and coffee are very famous, there were plenty of places to drop in for some caffeine and sugar. I was most impressed though by the amount of restaurants serving everything from above average burgers to game meats all for a very friendly price. And let's not forget the beer. Much improved over the last twenty years.
Hopefully this will not be the last post on Lviv. There was so much to see and experience that it cannot all be shared in one post. So enjoy the pictures below and feel free to ask questions or post comments while waiting for the next post.
The Incredible Opera House
Christmas/New Year Tree at the beginning of the holiday market
"The Wave of Ukrainian Revival" next to Taras Shevchenko Monument
Taras Shevchenko Monument Under the Moonlight
New Favorite - "I 'some sort of symbol' Lviv" Sign (Courtesy of Phone Company KyivStar)
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