A Week in Lviv, Part One

Last week I was lucky to spend some time in Lviv, the nationalist and spiritual heart of Ukraine. It is hard to describe the reaction of people in Zhytomyr have when I mention "Lviv". Their eyes light up and they become very spiritual. Words are spoken in whispered tones followed by a smile and talk of chocolate, coffee, and beer. Although feelings may be different in the more Russian-speaking East, Lviv is definitely in the hearts and minds of the people in the West.

So why is it so special? As I mentioned, it is the heart of the Ukrainian Nationalist movement. When you come to Lviv, you best speak Ukrainian. If you can't then try some Polish or even English but do not, NOT! speak Russian. This is especially true in the climate of war and intense feelings of animosity towards Russia and Vladimir Putin. As it is, Lviv has seen ownership change hands a few times in the Twentieth Century.  It was Polish Lwow from the end of World War One to the Soviet/German division in 1939. After the Germans were evicted at the end of World War Two, the city was renamed Lvov as Ukraine became ingrained as a member of the USSR. Only with Ukrainian independence in 1991 did the city fully become known as Lviv.

If you have spent any time in Krakow, Poland then Lviv will feel very familiar. Ignoring the Soviet-style architecture, you will see an ancient city with modern trappings. There are numerous churches or varying faith that you pass by as you weave through cobblestone streets. There is also an arsenal and more than one former monastery. But the main point of attraction is Площа Ринок or Market Square where you will find the town hall and dozens of restaurants and shops. When i arrived the Christmas/New Year market was still open so the streets were filled with the sounds of sellers, shoppers, musicians and the smell of smoked meats. Since Lviv chocolate and coffee are very famous, there were plenty of places to drop in for some caffeine and sugar. I was most impressed though by the amount of restaurants serving everything from above average burgers to game meats all for a very friendly price. And let's not forget the beer. Much improved over the last twenty years. 

Hopefully this will not be the last post on Lviv. There was so much to see and experience that it cannot all be shared in one post. So enjoy the pictures below and feel free to ask questions or post comments while waiting for the next post.

 The Incredible Opera House

 Christmas/New Year Tree at the beginning of the holiday market

 "The Wave of Ukrainian Revival" next to Taras Shevchenko Monument

 Taras Shevchenko Monument Under the Moonlight

New Favorite - "I 'some sort of symbol' Lviv" Sign (Courtesy of Phone Company KyivStar)