Notes About the Underground

Without a doubt, things have changed on the Russian trains; subway, intercity, and long-distance. The metros of St. Petersburg and Moscow were always something special, beautifully decorated with nearly every stop having its own personality. Of course, it helped that some of the gold and chandelier-filled stations of Russia’s two largest cities were ‘curated’ by the Soviets, who ransacked Orthodox churches before blowing them up. But it seems like the lethargy of the 1970s-1990s gave way to an explosion of metro building throughout the 2000’s. Not only do the trains run more frequently, but the stations are artfully constructed and easy for foreigners to navigate.

Revolutionary Glory remains in St. Petersburg Metro stations

What surprised me the most when I first stepped on to the Moskovskaya metro station in St. Petersburg, was the x-ray machines and metal detectors. Since the terrorist attacks in April 2017, all train stations in at least Moscow and St. Petersburg have been equipped with tighter security methods. In addition to the machines, there are cops everywhere; some of them heavily armed. I was wondering how they could check so many people heading into and out of the subways. I’m still not sure how well the system works as people’s pockets and bags are filled with metal, electronic devices, and plastics. Sometimes I was made to put my bags through the x-ray machines and other times I didn’t. I couldn’t quite decide on if there was some sort of regulation or formula as it all seemed so random. The workers who were checking the x-ray machines looked as bored as the people who do a similar job at the airports.

Once you pass through the security upstairs, you slowly (and I mean slowly) descend the multitude of escalators and reach the last bit of safety equipment - the blast doors. They are just as they are described, two heavy metal doors that separate riders from the tracks. Therefore, you have to listen for the sound of the train arriving or an announcement from the intercom person to know that your ride has arrived. The doors loudly slide open to allow passengers off before you can get on. Again, I question the wisdom of these blast doors. On the one hand, they look like they can contain damage from a substantial blast. That’s the good news. Then there is the bad news; what happens if a bomb goes off and you are on the train? How will you get out? I’m assuming there is a set of safety procedures but I could not see them posted anywhere, at least in English.

Beyond the Stalinist feel (what other feel would there be in Russia, Putinist, perhaps?) of the safety measures, riding the metros were a joy. It was especially joyful after hearing about all the problems with the NYC transit system which has been in the news recently. Unlike New York, both St. Petersburg and Moscow stations seem large enough to hold a growing population. The Moscow stations were particularly overwhelmed with locals and tourists alike but it seemed that everyone was able to find where they were going to with enough space to move. In Moscow there are at least ten lines but you can easily follow the maps which are in every station in Cyrillic and English. There are also signs on the ground pointing commuters in the right direction. This was particularly helpful in Moscow as the size of the system was almost overwhelming the first time. I’m unsure of how many lines were added over the years but it was definitely a more comprehensive system. There are now two ring lines that allow commuters to connect to other lines without having to head back into the city. It makes traveling easier for the time-strapped tourist and the busy Muscovite alike.

Fully-rounded view of the Moscow Metro

Finally, the décor! I could go on forever (wait, let me try…) about the beauty of the design and the layout of the St. Petersburg and Moscow metro stops but that would require months (years?) of traveling the lines to get my facts straight. It is hard to put into words the amount of decorations, mosaics, statues, etc. metro riders walk by every day. I often wonder how many of them take the time to actually look at what is around them. Or are they like New Yorkers, heads buried in phones or eyes on the ground? How one could not be amazed is beyond me. St. Petersburg, for all accounts, is not quite as fancy as Moscow. You can still much Socialist Realist art on the walls. In Moscow you can also find heavy duty Soviet stations like Ploshchad Revolyutsii as well as some of the newer, less political stations. I was in one, Novoslobodskaya that was filled with mosaics and stained glass. I didn’t have time to see who or what was represented. But the station I was near, was easy to figure out, “Dostoyevskakay”. Built in 2010, this was full out Russian author with stone murals of some of his most famous works. There is one whole panel dedicated to Crime and Punishment and another to Fathers and Sons. On the way out the door (or on the way in) there is large mural of ole’ Fyodor himself.

Stained Glass at Novoslobodskay

Lenin Speaks!

How many more stations like this exist, I am unsure. It seems that the powers (power?) that be set out to create a transit system that was both practical and artistic. I am assuming there are train delays and other distractions but I often wonder why we cannot make our transit systems run this well. At rush hour, trains come barreling into the stations every one or two minutes. In New York them come every, what, six minutes? I also think the themed stations do so much for the commute as well. To a lesser degree, New York City stations are themed but not to this level. Imagine making your transportation system into a living museum, rather than a slimy Petri dish?