Going to Extremes

After Nizhnyi Novgorod, my next big stop was in the city of Yekaterinburg, officially past the Ural Mountains, in Asia. Now I was heading into new territory. I had never been to Asia before and I didn’t know what to expect from the first city outside the immediate radius of Moscow. I was also curious to see the changes in the ethnicity of the inhabitants. Would it be a total change from European to Asian, some sort of mix, or no change at all? I was surprised to find it much more European in flavor with a definite uptick in the Asian influence. What surprised me more than the people, was how much there was to do and see in the city. Once again, my planning was a bit off. Not only is Yekaterinburg good for two or more days in the city, there is also much to do outside in the Ural Mountains (next time!). 

Arrival

Heroes' Welcome 

For a city on the verge of Siberia, Yekaterinburg is a pretty happening kind of place. And who better than this “happenin” kind of guy to scope the place out? Actually, my main interest in the city is probably the same as many tourists', it was the city where the Bolsheviks murdered Czar Nicholas II and his family and entourage. It’s a pretty grim reason to visit but it is an important reason nonetheless. The actually murders took place on July 17, 1917 in the basement of a local city merchant’s home (Ipatiev House). Even during Soviet times, many people came there to lay flowers so city mayor, Boris Yeltsin, had the home knocked down and a small sign or memorial was left in its place. This failed to discourage the pilgrims and when the Soviet Union fell (again, the right people weren’t in place to make that great idea work!) a church was built on the site. And it’s a mighty fine church at that!

Cathedral on the Blood

The day I visited the Cathedral of the Blood the upper part was closed for repairs (?) but visitors could still go to the chapels in the basement. But before going inside, there are the huge pictures of the Czar and his family at the back of the church. This is the first time you get the feeling that the site is more than just a religious building, it’s a shrine. The pictures are more than sympathetic to the Czar but what takes things over the top is the statue representing the last of the Romanov rulers and his family. There they are, below a cross, striking heroic and/or defiant poses. The czar himself is holding the famous anemic, Crown Prince Alexei, swaddled in his arms. In fact, this image of Alexei as a Christ-like figure is quite dominant in the icons throughout the church.

Myrtardom begins before entry

Romanovs' as Religious Icons

Chapel of the Grand Duchess Elizabeth and Nun Barbara

Speaking of the church, it is all quite beautiful on the inside. Like all Orthodox churches, the inside is filled with icons that are surrounded by candles as the smell of incense wafts through the air. There is a bit of a different feel in this church, first because it is quite new, not ancient like many of the others throughout the country. The other difference is that also is a museum. As you move from the main altar to the side rooms you find various displays about the czar, his family, and the city during those days. I’m not sure if it is the exhibition changes but my guess is that this one is representative of the 100^th anniversary of the Czar’s death. As I made my way through the chapel and museum, I came about the spot where the Nicholas and his family were brutally murdered. There are plaques dedicated to all members of the family and the servants who died with them. Visitors are not allowed to come too close, nor are they allowed to take pictures. I was once again taken aback by the icons showing the Romanovs in a holy light. There they stand, surrounded by angels above, and family members nearby. (No sign of Rasputin at all) Crown Prince Alexi is front and center, the Chosen One, under rays of soft light. 

Example of Martyr Iconography

The more I look at these icons and museum displays I wonder who was checking their history books. While family was cruelly murdered, we should not forget that there was a Russian Revolution for a reason. The Romanovs were autocratic rulers who were quite out of touch with their (mainly) peasant subjects. Nicholas II, in particular, was a hapless ruler who got his country involved in a disastrous World War I. I’m unsure whether he was cruel or evil but he definitely was no saint. Therefore, I was of two minds when it came to the church. While it is important to remember the past (are we listening, America?), we shouldn’t do these complete one-eighties. Nicholas II’s tragic death should be remembered but he, and his family, should not be elevated to the level of saints. But, with the history books so often destroyed or tampered with in Russia, I’m not totally surprised that one extreme always seems to win out at the expense of the middle. But ain’t that how many want to view history?