So Vlad You Came

St. Vladimir  Blesses Me

My trip across Russia truly began in earnest on August 27, when I took a short ride out to Vladimir. Once again, I was very impressed with the Russian railroad system. The high-speed train only took two hours to travel to this lovely city in Russia’s Golden Ring. I have a feeling that twenty years ago, this same trip would have been on a rickety electrichka (inter-city train) that would have stopped at every other lamppost and arrived somewhere in the area of four hours. Today, the trip was fast, clean, and the train announcements were made in both Russian and English.

Siberian-style House

The Golden Ring is a series of ancient cities that surround Moscow. They are filled with beautiful and historic monasteries and churches that miraculously remained untouched during the Soviet era. Next to Suzdal (which I did not visit), Vladimir is one of the best in the bunch, where you can find the beautiful Assumption Cathedral with original art by the immortal icon painter Andrei Rublev. What I found most interesting about the ancient architecture is that it is based the churches and defensive structures of Kyiv. Before Moscow became the center of the Russian empire, Kyiv was where it was all happening. The great Prince Vladimir, who brought Christianity to the Rus people, was from Ukraine, not Russia (Thus “Kyiv-Rus” NOT “Rus-Kyiv”). Russians have tried over the years to deny this fact (the Soviets were famous deniers) but facts is facts and the Russian nation started in Kyiv. Over time his successors began to drift towards the Moscow area, first making Vladimir the capital of the emerging Russian nation. Therefore, there is a defensive gate based upon the Golden Gate in Kyiv. The Assumption Cathedral also has the feel of an ancient Ukrainian Orthodox church with onion domes, white exterior, and an interior filled with icons and the smell of incense. But of course this is not ordinary cathedral, as it was built beginning in 1158 and has remained intact with several changes despite centuries of war and political change. But unlike many of the churches in Moscow and Kyiv which are reproductions of earlier structures (ask the Soviets what happened to them!), this cathedral is the real deal. The icons, including the Rublev’s, are suitably dimmed with age. Additionally, the smell of incense fills the air and tourists inevitably rub elbows with worshipers and pilgrims who relentlessly bless themselves and venerate the many icons throughout the cathedral. An added highlight was the view behind the cathedral. A short walk out back reveals the Oka River which cuts through the fine-looking valley below.

Golden Gate

While the city of Vladimir was incredible from an historic point of view, my stay at a local wooden cabin hotel outside of town was the cultural highlight. This was the time where I got to hang out with the locals and learn a little bit more about their lives. When I booked the hotel months ago, I knew it was a little bit outside of town. I thought I could take an quick marshrutka and all would be well. I was soon informed by the wonderful Sofia at the train station that it was best to take a taxi to the hotel as a bus would take much too long. So this wonderful woman helped me arrange for the taxi and made sure the driver had the correct directions. Off we went, traveling, traveling, traveling. I began to wonder if we were going the correct way; fortunately, Google maps was working and I was able to locate the hotel. Boy, was it far away! I knew that I probably would not be doing much traveling the next day and decided I would just stay put. So I rang the bell, and out came Svetlana, the wife. She spoke very little English but my Russian was more than sufficient. She got me settled in my cozy cabin and then said she would prepare dinner for me (paid for, of course). Then the fun began.

Assumption Cathedral #1

Assumption Cathedral #2

Before dinner, I went with her husband, Valeryi, to walk their German Shepard. Or shall I say, the German Shepard walked us. Valeryi was a kind, talkative 60-year old man who liked to try out his English whenever possible. I’m not sure how many words he knows but he punctuated his speech with a well-timed adjective whenever possible (the dog was “quick, quick” and “crazy”). As he was dragged along by his monster canine, we discussed my travels and life in Vladimir. I also got a good look at the neighborhood which was filled with Siberian-looking houses; although we were far from Siberia. When we arrived back home, Svetlana invited us in for dinner. Immediately upon sitting down, my eyes were drawn to the cabinet which, like most Russian households, was filled with knickknacks of varying relevance. But, as hard as I tried, I could not avoid seeing on the top right-hand corner a picture of ole’ Vladimir Putin and next to the current dictator, I mean President, a flask with an engraving of Stalin. Oh boy! I steadied myself for an encounter I might not want to have. And yes, as much as I didn’t want to talk politics, Valeryi did. He told me about the strong Vladimir Putin and how important it was to take back Crimea and help our Russian brothers. As he said this, he joined his fingers from both his right and left hands to show a sign of unity and strength. Svetlana, who seemed more practical of the two, talked about how she could not wait until they built the bridge into Crimea and they could then drive to Yalta. I didn’t take the bait. I was not going to be dragged into a conversation about Ukraine. But it gave me more clarity on how some (or perhaps many) Russians think. As it has been throughout their history, they believe that the world; especially the West, is against them and that Russia must unite all Slavs in opposition. They have been deluded into thinking that the Ukrainian crisis was an invention of the West and that they must stick up for their brethren. They don’t seem to understand that despite the number of Russians in Ukraine, that it is a separate country that Russia just can’t go into at its discretion. First Georgia, then Ukraine, and then…the Baltics? I chose not to pursue this point.

With Svetlana

With Valeryi and Bearskin 

As a couple Svetlana and Valeryi seem like any long-lasting partnership in any country in the world. She, as a good Russian wife, makes the dinner and takes care of guests. He, as the good Russian husband, does the heavy chores, pays the bills, and sits down and eats here (delicious) meals. There is also the requisite joshing and eye rolls at statements that have been repeated ad nauseum over the years. Case in point, Stalin. I have a feeling that Valeryi wanted to talk about Stalin all evening. He kept looking up at the engraving and was more interested in him than Putin. Valeryi began to talk about how he admired Stalin, not for the bad things, of course. There was no mention about camps, knocks on doors in the middle of the night, and mental breakdowns after the German invasion. Instead he talked about how the prices on food was always low, and how everyone had a job and an apartment, and, and, and…Again, I chose not to interrupt because there were too many holes in which to blow through his arguments. Svetlana, for her part, just rolled her eyes and said that things were not always that great. She clearly had heard these arguments before. Valeryi just winked across the table and said that they were an “Italian couple”, and lightly banged his fists together. This brought another eye roll from Svetlana. It was then time for another toast, as I drank the Georgian wine and he drank more vodka. After a few hours of this great company, and some delicious stuffed peppers, I made my way to bed. 

Masha

I was lucky enough to stay another day at their hotel. I decided not to travel into Vladimir, even though it was their city days; usually lots of people and lots of fun. I didn’t feel like making the trip and then trying to get back. So I spent the day catching up on sleep and email. After another wonderful dinner, and similar conversation, I called it a night. The next day there were hugs all around. I felt that I had made one of those special connections you can only make when you cross national and cultural borders. Since that time, I have not had as many interactions as this but I hope to change that as I go deeper and deeper into the Russian Far East.

Unlucky Bear